Still Four Letters, Still the Best Deal in Town; Aska Opens Tonight in Former Frej Space

[askanyc.com]Fredrik Berselius and Richard Kuo opened Frej a month before Acme received two stars from the Times and five months before Atera was awarded three stars from the same publication. At the time, all three restaurants had chefs who were riding the wave of "new Nordic" cuisine that came from Scandinavia. The movement stemmed from a hyper-local approach to cooking that was taking shape in Copenhagen; specifically in Rene Redzepi's kitchen at his universally acclaimed restaurant Noma.

Just after six months of rave reviews and serving one of the city's best dining bargains (Frej offered a five-course tasting for $45), the restaurant closed it's doors for renovations. Tonight, in the space that once housed Frej in Williamburg's Kinfolk Studios, Berselius and former Atera General Manager Eamon Rockey are opening Aska.

Unlike Frej, which was only open Monday through Wednesday, Aska will be serving food from 6pm to 11pm seven days a week. Like Frej, Aska will be serving an underpriced (likely outstanding) tasting menu: six courses for $65. The tasting however, is only available Sunday through Thursday and by reservation only.

What was once an 18-seat availability at Frej has grown to thirty, as Aska has two rooms: one that seats 18 and one that seats 12. In addition to the sustainable, locavore approach found in Berselius' food, Rockey has curated beverage options from "Old World-centric wines, traditionally brewed beers, earthy ciders, classic spirits and house‐pressed juices to be enjoyed on their own or paired with food." [AskaNYC] [Eater]

Eight New York State Wines to Drink on Thanksgiving

Preparing a Thanksgiving meal and cooking for a countless number of neurotic family members and friends is enough to drive any seasoned cook mad. We would never want that stress to get in the way of remembering the other part of dinner that's arguably just as important; the booze. In hopes to alleviate some stress, and to celebrate the great wines of New York, we put together this list of eight great wines from Empire State producers.

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Steady as M. Wells Goes

When Hugue Dufour and Sarah Obraitis opened M. Wells in Long Island City, Queens in 2010, they did so without a long-term lease. Longevity wasn't an option, but the married couple opened anyway because they lived across the street and had faith in their community. When news began to spread that the diner was actually closing, the public became curious to see the couple's next move. There was talk of a steak house and catamaran in LIC, but M. Wells Dinette, their cafeteria-style restaurant at MoMA PS1, came first. Just as Sam Sifton awarded M. Wells two stars in April last year, Pete Wells gives M. Wells Dinette two stars today.

The lunch only, schoolhouse dinette pays homage to the building's former identity as a school. As far as what's going on in the kitchen, Wells has this to say, "A native of Quebec, Mr. Dufour learned his blithe disregard for moderation while cooking at Au Pied de Cochon in Montreal, where he was also the pastry chef and an owner. Most of the time, his celebration of the unbridled joy of eating like a lumberjack is so convincing that I’d be prepared to split cordwood all day just to earn the right to pull up a chair."

There are a few misses at M. Wells Dinette, but nothing Dufour's otherwise sturdy repertoire and pastry chef Bethany Costello's deft touch with seasonal fruits can't make up for.

A Glimpse at Life Behind the Apron

illustration by gigi rose grayWhen you go out to eat, chances are the people in the aprons know more than you think. From allergies to stereotypes, and with help from Open Table, New York City servers have just about seen, and heard, it all.

There are the tables that fail the water question: "Would you prefer bottled or tap water?" To which "people look bewildered, like you've just asked them the most confusing question in the world."

There's the person with the allergy to "spice," which left a server wondering, "All spice? All? Including salt?" who then goes on to ask listeners, "Do you know what it's like to have to go into a kitchen and tell the chef, I'm not talking about Denny's, I'm talking about a Michelin starred restaurant, and tell the chef that somebody has an allergy to spice?"

"The unfortunate end of this business is that no matter how awful somebody is being to you, you're still responsible for them enjoying themselves." [Narratively]

Fall Flavors at Park Slope's Farmers Market

Over 50 markets have opened citywide since Greenmarket was founded in 1976. In 1991, Miriam Haas founded Community Markets with a similar goal of bringing local, seasonal food to neighborhoods with limited access. Since doing so, a total of almost 20 markets have opened in the boroughs and surrounding counties. Park Slope's vibrant Fifth Avenue received its first market in 2004. Spreading west down the dead end stretch of Fourth Street, the market is open Sundays, 10am - 4pm, year round.

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Otto Hosts "Friends of Frank" Tonight

Otto Enoteca is hosting a benefit tonight for Babbo executive chef Frank Langello, who lost his Staten Island home in Hurricane Sandy three weeks ago. The event runs from 5:30pm - 8:00pm and includes antipasti, pizza, pasta, wine, and beer. There is a $95 general admission and a $195 admission that includes the restaurant's two egg pizzas: Pane Frattau and White Truffle Pizza. Employees in the Batali & Bastianich Restaurant Group are invited to attend for $25. Tickets are available here.

Eat the Week; Nov 12th - 16th

Asia Feed: Our lunch in rural Vietnam | A look at Bánh Xèo; AKA the Saigon Sizzle | The delicate life of Bánh Cuốn | What do you call a whole suckling pig that's been stuffed with lemongrass and star anise and roasted on a crank all afternoon?

New York: Fletcher's Brooklyn Barbecue and Krescendo opened while we were in Asia | Ivan Orkin raises funds for Sandy victims with ramen at Smorgasburg | Menu changes at Torrisi taking affect December 1st | Pete Wells' review of Guy Fieri's restaurant incites media mayhem; our contribution | We took another First Bite at L'Apicio | Donde Dinner? - 14 Bedford Street

Donde Dinner? - 14 Bedford Street

Donde Dinner? wants to make your next dining experience an adventure. So, we'll pick a restaurant and post its address for you every Friday. The catch is, that's all the information you get. No name, no type of cuisine, and no Googling! Before we get to this week's Donde Dinner?, here's last week's address and a review of the restaurant Serious Eats posted this week.

154 Carlton Avenue = Lulu & Po

This week's restaurant follows typical Donde Dinner? fashion: price, quality, and accessibility are all taken into account. You won't be waiting at the bar for two hours with $15 cocktails, and you don't have to worry about a dress code. Just hop on the train, or your feet, or your bike, and head to:

14 Bedford Street (btwn Downing and W Houston)