Defonte's: Why Go Anywhere Else for a Sandwich?

Sure, Subway does that $5 footlong thing, but those aren't real sandwiches. Defonte's in Red Hook has the best deal in town and serves some of our favorite Italian-American classics. The sandwich shop opened a location in Gramercy in 2009, so for those not willing to make the trip to Red Hook, where the original store has been since 1922, you can stop by 21st and 3rd in Manhattan. But if you do go to the Red Hook store, you can get your sandwich and walk (or ride a bike) a few blocks west and eat it by the water. We did that recently with the Nicky's Special, an everything-but-the-kitchen-sink sandwich the size of a newborn that's only $11.95 and easily feeds two.

Defonte's gets their bread from Kings Highway Bakery in Gravesend, Brooklyn. It's brought in fresh everyday and, for the Nicky's Special, loaded with about a dozen ingredients: ham, capocollo, salami, fried eggplant, Provolone, marinated mushrooms, lettuce, tomato, and "hot salad." The hot salad is essentially a giardiniera, or pickled vegetable salad. At Defonte's, theirs is made with red peppers, cucumbers, celery, cauliflower, carrots, oregano, chili flakes, and cherry pepper oil. Vinegar, salt, and pepper finish the sandwich and the result is a symphony of flavors and textures. There's fat from the cold cuts and cheese, a vinegary tang and spicy kick from the hot salad, a crisp bite from the pickled vegetables, dense, chewy heft from the meaty, fried eggplant, and a crisp freshness from the shredded lettuce.

We love Defonte's not just for their delicious, generously-portioned sandwiches, but also for the vibrant atmosphere and guest interaction with employees. Defonte's is the type of New York institution where police officers and city employees are treated like plainclothesman. Everyone's an equal and there's a strong sense of community. You're likely to hear the "How's your uncle?" and "Tell Bobby I said hello" dialogue. The city feels small when you're there and, being 10 blocks from the nearest train, leaves you oblivious to its hustle and bustle for the afternoon.

379 Columbia Street | 718-625-8052 | www | map