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Wednesday
Nov282012

Bành Mí and Clyde

French influence came to Vietnam in the middle of the 19th Century when France colonized the Indochina Peninsula. The ensuing 90 years of French rule in Vietnam left a lasting affect on the country's cuisine. Perhaps the most widely known example is Banh Mi, the sandwich rich with pate, crunchy with pickled vegetables, and fresh from cilantro leaves and stems, delivered on the famously French vehicle, the baguette. In Vietnam, the baguette often takes on a lighter, crispier profile with the addition of rice flour. When toasted, as all Banh Mi sandwiches should be, the light, airy bread takes on a delicate, cracker-like crunch. Banh Mi stands are everywhere in Vietnam and it's not uncommon to see brick-and-mortar locations devoted to the sandwich. We had our first from a cart on the corner of Where are we? and Who knows? for about $1.50.

Carts are parked right up on the edge of the sidewalk, making it easy for passersby, on foot or Honda, to stop and make the transaction with swiftness and ease.

The carts don't have to be much bigger than the size of a mini fridge. The protein options range from sardines to chicken, but the classic banh mi is with a spreadable pork pate, pork roll  (similar to bologna), cilantro, a slaw of lightly pickled carrots and daikon radish, and fresh chilies. A mixture of butter and mayonaisse is sometimes applied before the pate. Not in this case.

Lighter variations of banh mi can be found during breakfast hours, when the sandwich may only consist of pate, but the combination of flavors and textures in a classic banh mi are nothing short of brilliant. The light, fresh crunch from the baguette is matched by the cucumbers, slaw and cilantro. Never a heavy sandwich, the pork in banh mi is applied with a careful hand and adds a subtle, salty meatiness that's cut by the bright sting of fresh chilies. An all around sound sandwich, the likes of which are understandably mimicked in New York City.

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